I am not used to this forum and a new comer to travel trailers. We recently bought A camplite that is new 21rbs i am in the act of setting up double batteries, Inverter and Midnite KID solar with 4x100W flex panels. I’ve connected a system/wiring diagram associated with the what I’m presently installing and you will be powering up within the day that is next 2.I would appreciate any feedback in the design to make sure a appropriate and SECURE system before We switch on!
The following is a website link into the diagram.
Responses
4kw panels into 2xMNClassic150 370ah 48v bank 2xOutback 3548 inverter 120v + 240v autotransformerNight system
1kw panels into 1xMNClassic150 700ah 12v bank morningstar 300w inverter
Many thanks for responses.
Correct the inverter that is 2000W big and is sized for running microwave oven OR expresso device for several minutes each.
Yes, how big the inverter may draw a lot of when performing sitting idle and it is built to turn on/off effortlessly, Many Many Many Thanks!
All breakers and cables sizes are to spec. This is true of energy center, inverter and solar. Wire lengths are quick runs in every full situations.i.e. all 1/0 cable lengths that are positive as much as 0 В· Share on Twitter
1.2KW down grid system; 2 strings of 2ea 305W 60 mobile panels for a redneck ground mount; MNPV3 combiner feeds a MN Timeless 150 located 100′ away; 12V 460AH FLA battery pack bank capabilities a cabin-wide 12V DC system in addition to a Cotek 700W PSW inverter; Honda EU2000i and IOTA 55A charger bridge cloudy times and a Champion 3800W generator for quick timeframe, energy appliances that are hungry.
Hi Mike,Thanks, you nailed my primary problem.
The Midnite Solar KID includes a DC GFP that We have maybe not shown because I’m nevertheless hoping to get some definitive responses about how exactly to 
hookup battery pack negative (framework connect or otherwise not) and ground (framework connect or otherwise not). The factory setup had a battery that is single linked to the framework nothing else. The energy center had all DC negative leads attached to a typical coach club that ended up being linked to the framework along with AC ground. AC basic and ground aren’t fused (by code only bond and that is done at coast energy panel). Therefore my question is do I disconnect battery pack negative from framework and then leave grounds to framework? Or float ground or something different? I’ll be setting up the GFP that connects between battery negative and ground and basically disconnects the PV+ during fault today. As shown now it will trip while you state.
Right now I’m tilting towards disconnecting trailer framework from battery pack negative.
1.2KW down grid system; 2 strings of 2ea 305W 60 mobile panels on a redneck ground mount; MNPV3 combiner feeds a MN Vintage 150 located 100′ away; 12V 460AH FLA battery pack bank abilities a cabin-wide 12V DC system in addition to a Cotek 700W PSW inverter; Honda EU2000i and IOTA 55A charger bridge cloudy times and a Champion 3800W generator for quick period, energy hungry devices.
Fundamentally all grounds get to frame. That features AC ground from coast and all sorts of framework grounds of elements. Battery negative normally attached to framework. We included the DC-GPF from Midnite Solar within the last diagram (see express link). We system tested and every thing worked fine today. Wire length arrived up in a reviews that are few had off their sources. Observe that the “round journey” amount of the 1/0 cable is significantly less than 8 feet. from battery pack terminals to inverter and right straight back.
One small modification we will make is always to your battery pack bank grounding to your framework ground. it is suggested from the negative battery post to the common negative bus on the other side of the shunt that you move it.
With car lots, many utilize the framework whilst the return for energy (DC illumination, automotive radio, and such). For which you have actually the framework to battery pack ground now will “miss” any loads that occur to get back present through their framework ground connection(s).
Battery pack bank is tiny for the 2,000 Watt @ 12 VDC inverter. Nominally, I would personally be suggesting a 500 Watt optimum AC that is continuous load. (2,000 watts * 1/0.85 AC inverter eff * 1/10.5 volt battery pack cutoff=) 224 Amp nominal present flow at maximum AC inverter score.
1/0 cable is NEC ranked for
125 to 170 amps (in conduit)—And I would be suggesting a 1.25 Wiring+Breaker derating (224 amps * 1.25 derating= if you were going to really run the inverter near 2,000 watts for longer periods of times (more than a few minutes),)
280 minimum that is amp Branch Circuit DC present.
By using the less conservative Marine standards that are wiring 1/0 is perfect for up to 285 Amps
You don’t show breakers/fuses for a few regarding the wiring making the good coach club for a few associated with other DC loads (hitch plug, cooling fan)–You needs to have security for all those connections too (fuses/breakers ranked to size of wiring).